Time to move on from the Virgins. Next we're headed to the Sabine Women. Okay, okay, just my attempt at humor. =^) Of course, we can't depart until packages arrive (should be here today or tomorrow), and we complete the rebedding of three hatches, which we're doing because they leak when it rains and because we have time, due to the wait for packages. Then we're heading north, well to be precise west north west. Yes, we have a plan! (Dave are your reading this?) But before I share with you what's next, time to update everyone on where we've been.





After Ken's passport arrived we sailed to Anegada the northern most of the British Virgin Islands. Unlike the rest of the Virgins, it was not formed via volcanic activity. Anegada has a completely different geological history. It is a coral atoll. As such it is low lying island, only 28 feet above sea level at its highest point. It reminded me of the Bahamas with its white sandy beaches, intensely blue waters and shallow access through surrounding reefs. At one point the water depth in the channel to the anchorage was only 7 feet 5 inches! Aurora's draft is 7 feet. Not too comfortable.





As much had been made of the grilled lobster dinner at the Anegada Reef Hotel by cruising guides and by other cruisers, Ken and I made reservations. Dinner was a pleasant enough experience, but unfortunately did not live up to the rave reviews we'd heard and read. The tables were located out-of-doors, almost on the beach, but not quite. We ate dinner with the sun setting over the ocean and our bare feet in the sand, casual with tablecloths. Very island like. The lobster was local and fresh. So fresh that earlier in the afternoon we passed our dinner on the way in from the dinghy dock. The live lobsters were held in a submerged cage just off the dock, well at least until right before dinner. And the lobsters were huge. Although a wonderful island setting, the food and service were like we've experienced throughout the Caribbean, just not very good. Yes the lobsters were large, but dry; the vegetables overdone; the salad uninteresting and the screw-top wine overpriced. The service was at best adequate, not friendly nor welcoming. I'm not sure why the rave reviews.

I've discussed this with other cruisers and they have had the same experience. Most feel they can make better meals on their boats. I have to agree. Ken cooks dinner and I prefer his meals to the ones touted in the cruising guides. As for service, it's just different in the islands. In the states, we have a competitive economy in which service is valued and ultimately rewarded with repeat customers and for those individuals providing the service, tips. Service is so valued in the US, we have a hospitality industry. One doesn't realize how this impacts life until one travels. At least I didn't. It's not that we are better, it's just that we've become accustomed to a standard of service that isn't the norm everywhere. The difference is noticeable. We in the U.S. have it good. It bears repeating, we are fortunate. Not just those who are purchasing a service, but also those who are employed in service industries. To be trained, or in some cases to know intuitively, how to do a job well and then do it so, is satisfying. It's a joy to be good at what you do. Unfortunately if being in the "hospitality" industry is the only job available and not one's calling, it may not be a joy to work. And for the customer, the feeling is the same. It may not be a joyful experience.

Having said that, so much in the islands is amazing. Until recently, SCUBA diving was not allowed in the reef off Anegada, but there is now one dive shop, We Be Divin', that has permission to dive the reef. Ken and I did a shore dive from the beach at Loblolly Bay. Boat diving spoils one. Getting in to and out of the ocean in a full set of SCUBA gear from the shore is awkward, but doable. And we did it. Ken was disappointed in the dive as most of the coral in the reef has died. It is just beginning to reestablish itself. However, I had a completely different experience. The shapes of the old coral heads and the coral canyons created by the reef were quite something to see and SCUBA through. There were lots of fish and we saw a turtle. The dive was shallow and the sun shining bright, so it felt like being in a aquarium. The sun light brought out the colors of the fish and back lit the coral heads. Looking up one from the bottom of a dark coral canyon I could see the sun shining through an opening in the coral while schools of fish swam above in the turquoise water. It was beautiful.


After our stay in Anegada, we returned to the BVI and wandered from bay to cove to bay. One of my favorite spots was Trellis bay on Tortola. The bay is a mooring field with too many boats, but at Trellis Bay I found Aragorn's Studio, an outstanding gallery and art studio. Aragorn is a native of St Thomas, received his education in Europe and is a talented artist. He works in metal, but also does wonderful etchings. My search for a piece of art for our saloon is over. I purchased one of Aragorn's etchings. It met both Ken and my requirements. It is a piece of art work of and from the islands (my requirement) and its content is nautical (Ken's choice). Not only does Aragorn display his own work in the gallery, but he also shows the work of other talented Caribbean artists. I've been to a lot of galleries on the islands, but the quality and quantity of local craft works at Aragorn's was the best I've seen. Yes, I've been to galleries with more impressive oil paintings, but not better crafts work--great Carib basketry, interesting pottery and quality carvings.

After our stay in Trellis bay we headed over to Jost Van Dyke, a small island north of Tortola. On the way we experienced problems with our genoa furler. The genoa is the sail at the bow of the boat. We couldn't furl the sail. Ken details the excitement in his April Journal entry on our web site.

We did get the sail rolled up, kind of (It certainly wasn't properly furled) and headed back to Crown Bay Marina in St Thomas, USVI to have a rigger look at it. Turns out the metal halyard somehow got caught around the furled sail creating a permanent kink in the halyard cable. Couldn't be repaired. Required a new halyard and installation. It's done and we're on our way again.

As mentioned we spent the rest of our stay in Long Bay on St Thomas working on the boat and waiting for mail. And planning our next few months of sailing. We talked of crossing the Atlantic in May and spending time in the Med. However, the Atlantic is a big ocean and we thought it might be wise for us to get more passage making experience before we tackle such a voyage. So we're heading to Key West and then up the east coast of the United States. We'll be spending July and August in Maine. We'll be making longer passages during this trip north than we did coming south. We plan to sail from San Juan, Puerto Rico to Key West, Florida. That's a 5 to 7 day passage taking us north of Puerto Rico, Dominican Republic and Cuba and south of the Bahamas. It's known as the old Bahama Passage. Then we'll head up the Keys to Ft Lauderdale. From Ft Lauderdale it's another several day passage to Beaufort, South Carolina. We'll do a two day sail around Cape Hatteras to Norfolk, VA and then up the Chesapeake where we'll spend some time. I'd like to sail up the Potomac to Washington DC. Then we'll continue on up the coast with the goal of reaching Maine by mid July. I know it's not as exotic as sailing across an ocean, but it will provide us with much needed passage making experience. And it will be nice to be back in the States for a while.

More Photos. The most recent picts are located in the Photo Gallery at:
http://www.svaurora.com/newsite/PhotoGallery/Virgins%20Second%20Season/index.html

It's now Tuesday April 29th. We sailed from the Virgins yesterday afternoon and are currently anchored in Ensenada Honda Bay on the Spanish Virgin Island of Culebra. Weather looks good for a Friday sail to San Juan, Puerto Rico. From there we leave on our week long passage to Key West, Florida.

Cheers!

Maryann